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    APONOGETON-FANCY: MADAGASCAR LACE, BULB

    SKU: 25445
    SCIENTIFIC NAME: APONOGENTON MADAGASCARENSIS

    SCIENTIFIC NAME: APONOGENTON MADAGASCARENSIS Aponogeton madagascariensis, commonly called Madagascar Lace, is usually found in moving water on the island of Madagascar. Its lace-like (fenestrated) leaves are unique, and this species has been a challenge for aquarists since the 1950s. There are two closely related varieties, henkelianus and major, that have broad leaves and two-spiked whitish or yellowish flowers which can be self-fertilized with a paint brush to produce viable seeds. Variety henkelianus has irregular fenestration of the leaves, and variety major has a much more regular (rectangular) fenestration. The other variety in the aquarium trade, var. madagascariensis is a much larger plant with narrower leaves that can be up to 1 meter long including the petiole. This variety has pink or purple flowers usually with five spikes, and these flowers cannot be self-fertilized. The stems of A. madagascariensis flowers can be up to a half inch in diameter. All varieties of Madagascar Lace, prefer to be established in a substrate low in organic matter. Rich substrates, or those with added peat or manure, should be avoided. Dark brown dead spots on the older leaves that spread until the whole leaf is dead indicate too rich a substrate. The presence of roots from other plants also helps the lace plant establish itself. Ideally, these 'companion plants' should not overgrow or shade the lace plant leaves. The smaller, more compact Cryptocoryne species serve this purpose well. It is best to have the companion plants established before planting the lace plant bulb, which, by the way, should not be buried completely. Along with moderate, unobstructed lighting, the lace plant requires CO2 additions to do its best, along with careful maintenance of all macronutrients and micronutrients. Madagascar Lace is especially sensitive to a lack of soluble iron in the water. Lace plants have rest periods where the leaves die back. The bulbs, however, should not be allowed to dry during the rest period. Eventually they start growing again. If kept with constant good growing conditions, the lace plant can keep producing leaves for years without a rest period. If not supplied with adequate CO2 and nutrients, a lace plant bulb will initially produce healthy leaves, but it is using stored food reserves in the bulb, and will soon run out of reserves and dwindle away. Finally, it is important to note that Madagascar Lace does far better when temperatures are not allowed to reach over approximately seventy five degrees Fahrenheit. Growth over that temperature can result in much slower and smaller growth; high enough warmth can lead to a total cessation of growth. If seeds are produced, they will, like other Aponogeton seeds, be released with waterproof fleshy seed coats that allow them to float for a day or two until the seed coat disintegrates, releasing the embryo, which sinks and immediately tries to get rooted. These embryo seedlings should be planted in silica sand mixed with a small amount of soil to produce 'muddy' sand. Given these good growing conditions, the seedlings should reach in three or four months a size where their leaves are 4 inches long and their bulbs nearly a half inch in diameter. At this size the little plants can be transplanted.

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    SCIENTIFIC NAME: APONOGENTON MADAGASCARENSIS Aponogeton madagascariensis, commonly called Madagascar Lace, is usually found in moving water on the island of Madagascar. Its lace-like (fenestrated) leaves are unique, and this species has been a challenge for aquarists since the 1950s. There are two closely related varieties, henkelianus and major, that have broad leaves and two-spiked whitish or yellowish flowers which can be self-fertilized with a paint brush to produce viable seeds. Variety henkelianus has irregular fenestration of the leaves, and variety major has a much more regular (rectangular) fenestration. The other variety in the aquarium trade, var. madagascariensis is a much larger plant with narrower leaves that can be up to 1 meter long including the petiole. This variety has pink or purple flowers usually with five spikes, and these flowers cannot be self-fertilized. The stems of A. madagascariensis flowers can be up to a half inch in diameter. All varieties of Madagascar Lace, prefer to be established in a substrate low in organic matter. Rich substrates, or those with added peat or manure, should be avoided. Dark brown dead spots on the older leaves that spread until the whole leaf is dead indicate too rich a substrate. The presence of roots from other plants also helps the lace plant establish itself. Ideally, these 'companion plants' should not overgrow or shade the lace plant leaves. The smaller, more compact Cryptocoryne species serve this purpose well. It is best to have the companion plants established before planting the lace plant bulb, which, by the way, should not be buried completely. Along with moderate, unobstructed lighting, the lace plant requires CO2 additions to do its best, along with careful maintenance of all macronutrients and micronutrients. Madagascar Lace is especially sensitive to a lack of soluble iron in the water. Lace plants have rest periods where the leaves die back. The bulbs, however, should not be allowed to dry during the rest period. Eventually they start growing again. If kept with constant good growing conditions, the lace plant can keep producing leaves for years without a rest period. If not supplied with adequate CO2 and nutrients, a lace plant bulb will initially produce healthy leaves, but it is using stored food reserves in the bulb, and will soon run out of reserves and dwindle away. Finally, it is important to note that Madagascar Lace does far better when temperatures are not allowed to reach over approximately seventy five degrees Fahrenheit. Growth over that temperature can result in much slower and smaller growth; high enough warmth can lead to a total cessation of growth. If seeds are produced, they will, like other Aponogeton seeds, be released with waterproof fleshy seed coats that allow them to float for a day or two until the seed coat disintegrates, releasing the embryo, which sinks and immediately tries to get rooted. These embryo seedlings should be planted in silica sand mixed with a small amount of soil to produce 'muddy' sand. Given these good growing conditions, the seedlings should reach in three or four months a size where their leaves are 4 inches long and their bulbs nearly a half inch in diameter. At this size the little plants can be transplanted.

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